Q&A: Marco Balsimelli, technical director, Ornellaia

At Ornellaia, you inherit a house style associated with precision, power, and longevity. How do you see the next evolution of Ornellaia under your leadership?

Ornellaia's style is something that should remain true to its identity. Its DNA has always been about generosity, but at the same time, freshness, salinity, and length. I believe that the future of Ornellaia is clear: we will continue to produce wines that respect the terroir and its character while remaining deeply focused on balance, juiciness, and tannin quality.

Having worked extensively in Bordeaux before returning to your native Tuscany, what lessons from Bordeaux do you believe are most relevant to Bolgheri today?

Working for many years in the Médoc alongside Éric Boissenot taught me how to understand the defining qualities of great wines: complexity, balance, density, and refinement. Bordeaux wines are traditionally made in a cooler climate, even if that has become less true in recent years, with slightly more rain and humidity. Here in Bolgheri, we have less pressure when it comes to achieving full ripeness, without the same risks of botrytis. At the same time, however, we must pay close attention to sugar accumulation. Fortunately, acidity levels in Bolgheri remain naturally high, which gives our wines remarkable balance and energy.

The influence of the Mediterranean climate is very clear in the aromatic profile. Our wines are more driven by ripe fruit, with greater intensity and expression, and as they age, they develop a completely different profile from Bordeaux, usually with more balsamic notes. Thanks to their freshness and balance, our wines possess excellent ageing potential, but with a different identity - more Mediterranean and more sun-driven in character.

You've spoken about pursuing greater elegance in the wines. In practical vineyard and cellar terms, what does "elegance" mean to you at Ornellaia?

It's true that we speak about elegance in our wines. Our wines are naturally rich and structured, with a strong tannic backbone. That will never change because it is part of what Ornellaia represents. For me, elegance lies precisely in the balance between richness on one side and freshness, length, and above all, tannin quality on the other. The tannins must always be silky, long, and savoury.

Climate volatility is becoming one of the defining issues for fine wine globally. Looking ahead 10 to 20 years, which adaptations do you think premium estates like Ornellaia will ultimately have to embrace to preserve freshness?

In recent years, we have clearly seen the effects of climate change. Average temperatures in the latest vintages have been slightly higher compared to the last 40 years. Fortunately, rainfall has not decreased significantly, and recent vintages have not been excessively dry. This helps the vines cope with the heat peaks we can experience during the summer.

At Ornellaia, the proximity to the sea also helps moderate these events, which are less extreme here than in many other regions. Over the years, we have completely changed our soil management, making the soil more alive and dynamic. This helps the vines stay more balanced, healthier, and more resilient when facing sudden and sometimes violent climate events.

For new vineyard parcels, we have selected rootstocks with deeper root systems and greater drought resistance. Planting density is now between 6,000 and 6,500 vines per hectare. In general, we are also replanting more Cabernet Sauvignon because we have outstanding soils for this variety, and it reacts particularly well to current climate conditions.

In terms of canopy management, we have also introduced several changes. Leaf removal is now much lighter, and in some cases, we only carry out light shoot thinning. We try to maintain more vegetation on the south-facing side in order to protect the grapes from sunburn. We are also testing shading nets.

For now, there are fortunately many possible solutions for the future of viticulture. The key is to continue observing, learning, and making thoughtful decisions with precision and adaptability.