Q&A: John Chan, Founder, Somms in Da Hood

You've spent years shaping one of Asia's most respected wine programmes at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental. What personal or professional motivations led you to branch out and create Somms in da Hood?

First of all, I was very fortunate - and it remains my greatest honour - to have served as head sommelier and director of wine at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental for more than a decade. That experience gave me invaluable exposure to the world-class fine dining scene. The programme already had a strong foundation when I arrived, so my role was to strengthen it - expanding the beverage portfolio across wine, spirits, water, non-alcoholic drinks, Western and Chinese teas, and coffee - and to evolve it in line with market expectations and company direction.

However, after 11 rewarding years with MO, and 22 years on the hospitality frontline, my body started sending me signals that it was time for a change. The physical demands of hospitality are no joke. After some deep reflection and a feasibility study, I decided to resign and join a local wine company as a wine buyer. That gave me valuable insight into back-office operations - not just wine purchasing, but also administration and accounting.

A year later, I started Somms in da Hood on my own. My goal was to serve the Hong Kong market with quality wines - ready-to-drink vintages at accessible prices - and to introduce new, on-trend products. There's still a significant gap between what customers want and what the market offers here, and my mission is to bridge that gap.

At the end of the day, whether you're a director of wine at a five-star hotel or an entrepreneur running a small business, the philosophy is similar - only the risk profile changes. In a hotel, you can take a longer-term investment view. As an independent, you have to think more carefully about cash flow and a shorter return cycle to stay financially healthy.

Hospitality in Hong Kong has shifted dramatically post-pandemic. How do you see the role of the sommelier evolving today?

It was definitely a difficult time, especially for the hospitality sector. Post-pandemic, Hong Kong's habits and consumer behaviour changed. Nightlife was quiet. Dining out wasn't as popular. Many locals started spending weekends in Shenzhen instead, and visitors from the Mainland came mainly to take selfies rather than shop or dine. These are facts we can't ignore.

To attract both locals and travellers again, quality and value must go hand in hand. Before the pandemic, Hong Kong was known for offering high quality - but at high cost. Now, sommeliers, managers, and chefs all have to be smarter buyers, managing their inventories carefully and finding a balance between quality, value, and price.

As a sommelier, sourcing wisely - from diverse channels and at better prices - can make a big difference. Offering the same wine at a more attractive price immediately draws attention. But as a supplier, I focus on bringing in value-driven, ready-to-enjoy wines that help restaurants maintain healthy margins while giving customers a reason to return. It's a win-win-win - for suppliers, outlets, and guests.

You've observed Hong Kong's wine scene for over a decade. What changes in consumer taste have surprised you most?

One of the most positive shifts has been the balance between red and white wines. Two decades ago, most lists were roughly 25% white (including sparkling and sweet wines) and 75% red. Now, a strong list often has about 40% white to 60% red. White wines are generally easier to pair with food, and the range of interesting, high-quality whites on the market has grown dramatically.

Younger drinkers are also much more open-minded. They're curious about organic, orange, and natural wines, and about emerging regions such as Hokkaido or Yamanashi in Japan. Fruit wines, ciders, and other unconventional categories are gaining traction globally and are beginning to find a following here in Hong Kong too.

Finally, you've built a reputation on classic fine wines, but Somms in da Hood has a fresh, almost street-culture sensibility. Where do you want to take the brand next?

As a blue-collar sommelier - someone lucky enough to enter the wine world and live out a kind of Disney adventure, meeting great winemakers and tasting legendary bottles – I wanted to give something back. And Somms in da Hood is my way of doing that: bringing professional sommelier-level service to the neighbourhood. My customers have become friends, and I serve them surprises, quality, and value. You don't need to go to a Michelin-starred restaurant anymore to find me.

In the short term, I want Somms in da Hood to be known locally as a niche wine specialist. In the next five years, my goal is to become a leader in the niche wine market - and to encourage more suppliers to feature unique, lesser-known wines that deserve attention.