No Room for Negativity

I don't like the word "beleaguered", I don't like the expression "on its knees" – but I'm hearing them all too often in our industry. Yes, it's currently beset with challenges, but the overuse of the word "beleaguered" gives the impression of an industry about to capitulate – which is far from the case.

"No one makes any money in the wine business anymore" – then leave it; "it's tough going into the industry these days" – don't join then. Negativity, negativity – I'm fed up with the moaning.

Yes, the wine business is facing greater challenges than ever. Volumes continue to decline, value is only driven by cost of dry materials, shipping, duty, and inflation, and the costs of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) are eroding wine margins; duty changes are driving issues even further. The cost-of-living crisis means that consumers are shifting their social habits, going out less, which puts increasing stress on pubs and restaurants. Sprinkle all of this with the seismic impact of both global political turbulence, and unforeseen natural disasters, such as the recent horrific fires in southwest France, and you seemingly have a cocktail of doom.



Most of what we read and hear currently is pessimism. And yet, I've been hearing this for years, even back in my days as a supermarket buyer, with constant pronouncements that the UK was the toughest market in which to trade – wide-sweeping statements which may have deterred many a producer. Yet, here we are seventeen years since I left the safety of corporate retail, and the industry is still standing – and thriving... but in different ways.

Of course nothing is the same – the world isn't, society isn't, our ways of working and living aren't, generations aren't – and we can't afford to wallow in the stagnant bubble of an old- fashioned industry. But there is so much excitement, positivity and innovation happening right now, far beyond what existed in my days as a buyer, and the success is coming to those businesses, large, small and new, that are embracing change, thinking outside the box, and actually focusing on the consumer and the customer, NOT on their own predilections.

The evolution of the wine world in the last two decades, brings to mind the Darwinian principle "it is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change." Drinking styles and habits have changed, just as fashion has. Evolution and adaptation – hold fast to history and its stories, but adapt it to today's world. Acceptance and embracing of change, however radical, is essential for success.

Change brings excitement, if embraced, and when the consumer is put at the heart of the strategy; no longer what YOU want to sell, but what the consumer wants to buy, something which retailers have been preaching for years. Look at some of the trends: formats – from cans and pouches to paper bottles – genius, and consumer friendly. It's no different from the hesitant reaction to screwcaps in the early nineties.



Low-and no-alcohol wines - apologies to you cynics, but this is here to stay. "No/Lo" is the fastest growing sector of the industry, delivering fresher, lighter styles, with lower alcohol levels. We're also witnessing far-reaching changes in techniques from the vineyard to the winery. And consider emerging regions and varietals – this is such an exciting time for hitherto little- known wines, which wouldn't have had a look in 20 years ago. Look how retailers are embracing them and encouraging their customers to try – from Georgia and Greece, to Marselan and Dimiat – and celebrate England's rise to stardom.

Finally, please stop blaming Gen Z; both recent US Gallup polls and KAM reports prove that moderation is being seen across all generations. Adaptation is key. One thing that unites the many of us who have dedicated our careers to this maverick and frequently fractious business is passion – passion and fascination for the subject of wine, from vineyard to table. Let's face it, we've only got one shot at this thing called life, so we might as well try to enjoy what we do each day.

If I've learned anything lasting in life, it's stubborn resilience and an unrelenting grasp on positivity. In our lives, both personal and professional, things happen for two reasons; decisions that we make; and events over which we have no control. What I've learnt, and the one mantra I have lived by since 2008, is that we can't control what happens to us...but we can control how we react.

So please, less moaning and let's enjoy our wonderful world of wine, focussing on those blue skies behind the ever-shifting, swirling clouds.