EN
English
French
- Chris Boiling
- 2025-05-21
Fortified wines – from the pale, bone-dry finos of Jerez and the aged tawnies of the Douro to the “liquid gold” muscats of Australia and the endlessly resilient wines of Madeira – sit at the very heart of wine history. Yet, today, the category is fighting on several fronts at once: for relevance, attention and sales.
But, at the International Wine Challenge, they are always well received and score in the high 90s. The results give this category an annual boost…
But before we name the top fortifieds from Portugal, Spain and Australia, here is a roundup of some of the problems facing this category.
This generational gap threatens the long-term relevance of wines traditionally served after special dinners.
A few other market concerns:
In the Portuguese island of Madeira, there is competition for land in some of the best coastal spots – while rising temperatures endanger traditional mountain plots.
Repeated La Niña cycles have increased disease pressure and reduced yield for Rutherglen muscat growers in Australia.
But producers are becoming evermore creative. Tio Pepe’s limited-edition, ultra-fresh “En Rama” bottlings sell out on allocation and generate buzz on social media. In addition, parent company Gonzalez Byass is at the forefront of the wine industry’s response to climate change. It promotes circular-economy messaging and publishes quantified CO₂-reduction targets and zero-waste metrics, reframing Sherry as eco-friendly in the process.
Sherry producers are also reaching out to mixologists to get in front of young enthusiasts. High-acid finos and manzanillas feature on low-ABV cocktail lists in London and New York, distancing Sherry from its “grandma’s tipple” image.
Port is clawing back sales by re-positioning as an aperitif. White Port & Tonic has become a summer staple in many markets. UK retail data show 50% category growth over the past decade. Cockburn’s canned Portonic (Port & Tonic) opened supermarket doors in 12 countries and Symington says the format reaches “completely new consumption occasions”. Further sales are being garnered through experiments such as Pink Port and bar-designed blends (eg. Graham’s Blend No12), which target cocktails and younger drinkers.
In Madeira, it’s tempting for the next generation of vineyard owners to sell their hillside terraces for hotel development or to replace the vines with banana trees, which crop twice a year. Blandy’s has released a new range of 10-year-old Madeiras in a fresh, approachable style and in a more modern format.
Fortified wines may never reclaim the mass-market dominance they once enjoyed, but through targeted innovation, transparent storytelling and the spotlight of a trusted global competition, like the IWC, producers are proving that these heritage styles can still command attention – and affection – from today’s drinkers.
But, at the International Wine Challenge, they are always well received and score in the high 90s. The results give this category an annual boost…
But before we name the top fortifieds from Portugal, Spain and Australia, here is a roundup of some of the problems facing this category.
Market headwinds: shrinking audiences and changing tastes
Market data show there is a decreasing number of habitual wine drinkers and even fewer enjoying niche fortified styles on a regular basis. The data also show that consumption remains concentrated among 55-plus drinkers while younger adults gravitate to cocktails, hard seltzers and no/low-alcohol options.This generational gap threatens the long-term relevance of wines traditionally served after special dinners.
A few other market concerns:
- High-sugar categories are under scrutiny as health-minded shoppers look to cut down on sugar intake.
- Fortified wines can be dismissed as “too sweet,” especially when nutrition data become more visible.
- Mandatory EU ingredient and nutrition labelling means all wines – including Sherry, Port and Madeira – bottled for the EU must now declare calories and ingredients (often via QR e-labels).
Climate and vineyard stress
Port producers in the Douro are facing hotter summers and erratic rainfall, which are pushing alcohol levels up and yields down.In the Portuguese island of Madeira, there is competition for land in some of the best coastal spots – while rising temperatures endanger traditional mountain plots.
Repeated La Niña cycles have increased disease pressure and reduced yield for Rutherglen muscat growers in Australia.
Category-specific challenges and responses
Sherry sales are sliding. Global shipments fell a further 6.4% in 2024, nearly halving the volumes seen in 2010.But producers are becoming evermore creative. Tio Pepe’s limited-edition, ultra-fresh “En Rama” bottlings sell out on allocation and generate buzz on social media. In addition, parent company Gonzalez Byass is at the forefront of the wine industry’s response to climate change. It promotes circular-economy messaging and publishes quantified CO₂-reduction targets and zero-waste metrics, reframing Sherry as eco-friendly in the process.
Sherry producers are also reaching out to mixologists to get in front of young enthusiasts. High-acid finos and manzanillas feature on low-ABV cocktail lists in London and New York, distancing Sherry from its “grandma’s tipple” image.
Port is clawing back sales by re-positioning as an aperitif. White Port & Tonic has become a summer staple in many markets. UK retail data show 50% category growth over the past decade. Cockburn’s canned Portonic (Port & Tonic) opened supermarket doors in 12 countries and Symington says the format reaches “completely new consumption occasions”. Further sales are being garnered through experiments such as Pink Port and bar-designed blends (eg. Graham’s Blend No12), which target cocktails and younger drinkers.
In Madeira, it’s tempting for the next generation of vineyard owners to sell their hillside terraces for hotel development or to replace the vines with banana trees, which crop twice a year. Blandy’s has released a new range of 10-year-old Madeiras in a fresh, approachable style and in a more modern format.
Fortified wines may never reclaim the mass-market dominance they once enjoyed, but through targeted innovation, transparent storytelling and the spotlight of a trusted global competition, like the IWC, producers are proving that these heritage styles can still command attention – and affection – from today’s drinkers.
Top Sherries at IWC 2025
- Bodegas Osborne Venerable VORS NV, 97pts
- Emilio Lustau Amontillado Botaina Edicion Limitada En Rama NV, 97pts
- Bodegas Osborne Pedro Ximénez 1905 NV, 96pts
- Bodegas Osborne Solera AOS Rare NV, 96pts
- Emilio Lustau Añada 1995, 96pts
- Emilio Lustau Oloroso VORS 30 Yo NV, 96pts
- Emilio Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa NV, 96pts
- Emilio Lustau Pedro Ximenez Murillo NV, 96pts
- Emilio Lustau Pedro Ximenez San Emilio NV, 96pts
- Valdespino Oloroso Don Gonzalo Vos NV, 96pts
- Valdespino Manzanilla La Especial 2016, 96pts
Top Ports at IWC 2025
- Granvinhos Dalva Porto Colheita 1985, 97pts
- Sandeman Porto Tawny 20 years old NV, 96pts
- Adiano Ramos Pinto Vinhos Porto 30 Years NV, 96pts
- Kopke Quinta de São Luiz Vintage 2022, 96pts
- Taylor’s M&S Collection Late Bottled Vintage Port 2019, 96pts
Top Madeira wines at IWC 2025
- D’Oliveira’s Verdelho 2001, 97pts
- D’Oliveira’s Tinta Negra 10 Years Medium Sweet NV, 95pts
- D’Oliveira’s Boal 1999, 95pts
- D’Oliveira’s Malvazia 2004, 95pts
- Justino’s Madeira Single Cask Malvasia 2005, 95pts
Top Australian fortifieds at IWC 2025
- Morris Wines Old Premium Rare Muscat NV, 97pts
- Morris Wines Old Premium Rare Tawny NV, 96pts
- Morris Wines Cellar Grand Reserve Muscat NV, 96pts
.png)
