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English
French
- Victoria Makarova
- 2024-03-12
Beykush Winery, one of the best and most renowned craft wineries is Ukraine, is dangerously close to the frontline. It is located next to the Black Sea, in the village of Chornomorka, in the Mykolaiv region.
The winery was established in 2010 as the venture of a family who chose to love the land beaten by winds and drenched in sunshine. The adventure continues, despite the war, while the love for the land gets more and more overwhelming and unconditional each day.
Yevgen Shneyderis, the founder and owner of Beykush, recollects how it all began: “Back in 2010, our family lived in the countryside, and I was engaged in things typical for men in their 30s or 40s. At some point my wife decided she wanted to have some special chickens. I thought building a basic chicken coop was boring. Why not build it in the form of a small castle? Children could play in the castle, I could store wine in the cellar, and there would be a chicken coop in the back. A young architect, Valentina Sysoeva from Mykolaiv, drew a sketch, and we began to build a chicken coop castle (below).
“Now comes the key moment in this story. One day a neighbour poured me a glass of his wine, made from grapes that grew in his backyard, and I suddenly realised: this is what I need! I want to make wine. The chickens moved to another location, and the castle was turned into a winery. This building still stands right in the middle of our estate, but we produce our wines in other technological premises.”
Before starting his own winery, Yevhen (above) was reading a lot from the history of winemaking, seeking inspiration: “I was looking for some role models, and absolutely loved the story of several hippies who came to Priorat in 1979 and, over the course of 20 years, transformed the depressed wilderness into one of the most prestigious wine regions in the world.” Soon, the aspiring winemaker was offered some land for vineyards on the shores of Beykush Bay. He selected several plots, a total area of 11 hectares. The deal was done.
The vineyards of Beykush grow on several plots lying at the Beykush peninsula, the shores of which are washed by the Berezan estuary on one side and Beykush Bay on the other. They grow a wide range of varieties: from classic European grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo to regional varieties such as Rkatsiteli and Saperavi, and Ukrainian indigenous white grape Telti-Kuruk. They also grow Pinotage and Timorasso!
Yevhen recalls: “Until 2014, we were buying grapes in Crimea. After the annexation of Crimea by Russia in 2014, we could no longer work with the indigenous Crimean varieties, Ekim Kara and Kefessia, from which one of our most famous wines, Kara Kermen, was produced. We had no choice but produce it from two other powerful grapes – Tempranillo and Saperavi, using the appassimento method – drying the grapes before fermentation and fermenting the wine in barrels without a top lid.”
The rare Timorasso grape grows exceptionally well in the Beykush vineyards. In summer 2023, Fantasia Timorasso 2019 and Lerici 2021 (the name for Beykush Timorasso wine for the past two years) were highly appreciated by experts at an Italian tasting of Timorasso wines, organised by the Colli Tortonesi consortium. Among them was the inspired promoter of this indigenous Piedmont grape, Walter Massa, whose original idea it was, supported by Beykush winemaking consultant Bisso Atanasov to bring 1,000 Timorasso scions to Ukraine as an experiment, which obviously turned out to be a success.
Distinguished experts, winemakers and journalists noted how the terroir of the northern Black Sea region suited this variety, and some called Lerici 2021 their favourite wine in the tasting. The author of Il Golosario, Alessandro Ricci, wrote: “In Beykush wines this variety demonstrates an unprecedented character. Spicy notes of incense and black cardamon and some exotic notes are very pronounced in the aroma. The taste is less explosive, however it clearly reveals the character of Timorasso, as it doesn’t lack freshness and acidity. A very special taste of this wine is like a bridge between Italy and Ukraine, to which we are sending our support.”
In addition to the multiple grape varieties and complicated blends, Beykush wines have another feature: their names, originating from the history and culture of this incredible land. Yevgen told Canopy where these ideas came from: “Being interested in the history of the northern Black Sea region, I was surprised by the scale of events that took place here over the centuries, and the diversity of people who lived here – Cimmerians, Scythians, Greeks, Huns, Goths, Samaritans, Bulgars, Khazars, Pechenegs, Cumans, Tatars, Krymchaks, Karaims, and Ottomans. And, to make others interested, I decided to give our wines the names of toponyms located nearby. These names, even within a few kilometres around us, are plenty: Beykush, Artania, Yafe Nagar, Lerich, Arbina, Loka Deserta, Kara Kermen. For someone who is not a professional but, rather, an amateur historian, this research was not an easy thing to do. But it was absolutely worth it.”
When I asked Yevgen which of his wines is most special to him, he said: “It’s really difficult to single out just one of them. Red – Kara Kermen; orange – Arbina and Amphora; whites – Yafe Nagar and Telti-Kuruk. Our Artania, white and red, are very affordable, lively and gastronomic wines. To me, they are all the best.”
During our long conversation, we didn’t speak much about the war. When you are in the same boat, too many words are unnecessary. Yevgen was very laconic: “We are still in a very dangerous zone, a few kilometres away from the city of Mykolaiv, which is under daily missile, artillery and drone attacks. For security reasons, I cannot provide much information regarding what is currently happening in our region, now that it is located too close to the frontline. I also understand that I have no right to complain. Compared to many other wineries, we are fine.”
Biologist Winery is one of 17 producers on the Wines of Ukraine stand at ProWein 2024 (March 10-12, Dusseldorf, Germany). As well as the big winemaking companies and major players such as SHABO, Chateau Chizay, Koblevo and Bolgrad, the Ukrainian national stand (13H52) will present smaller craft wineries from various parts of the country. These include Biologist Winery (Kyiv region), Sass K Winery (Zakarpattia) and Beykush Winery (Mykolaiv).
Wines of Ukraine will also present 11 producers at the London Wine Fair, May 20-22, Olympia, London, W14 8UX, England. Stand: D26.
Victoria Makarova is a Ukrainian wine expert and journalist, and representative for Wines of Ukraine. Since April 2022, Victoria has been living in Baden-Württemberg, Germany.
The winery was established in 2010 as the venture of a family who chose to love the land beaten by winds and drenched in sunshine. The adventure continues, despite the war, while the love for the land gets more and more overwhelming and unconditional each day.
Yevgen Shneyderis, the founder and owner of Beykush, recollects how it all began: “Back in 2010, our family lived in the countryside, and I was engaged in things typical for men in their 30s or 40s. At some point my wife decided she wanted to have some special chickens. I thought building a basic chicken coop was boring. Why not build it in the form of a small castle? Children could play in the castle, I could store wine in the cellar, and there would be a chicken coop in the back. A young architect, Valentina Sysoeva from Mykolaiv, drew a sketch, and we began to build a chicken coop castle (below).
“Now comes the key moment in this story. One day a neighbour poured me a glass of his wine, made from grapes that grew in his backyard, and I suddenly realised: this is what I need! I want to make wine. The chickens moved to another location, and the castle was turned into a winery. This building still stands right in the middle of our estate, but we produce our wines in other technological premises.”
Before starting his own winery, Yevhen (above) was reading a lot from the history of winemaking, seeking inspiration: “I was looking for some role models, and absolutely loved the story of several hippies who came to Priorat in 1979 and, over the course of 20 years, transformed the depressed wilderness into one of the most prestigious wine regions in the world.” Soon, the aspiring winemaker was offered some land for vineyards on the shores of Beykush Bay. He selected several plots, a total area of 11 hectares. The deal was done.
The vineyards of Beykush grow on several plots lying at the Beykush peninsula, the shores of which are washed by the Berezan estuary on one side and Beykush Bay on the other. They grow a wide range of varieties: from classic European grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo to regional varieties such as Rkatsiteli and Saperavi, and Ukrainian indigenous white grape Telti-Kuruk. They also grow Pinotage and Timorasso!
Yevhen recalls: “Until 2014, we were buying grapes in Crimea. After the annexation of Crimea by Russia in 2014, we could no longer work with the indigenous Crimean varieties, Ekim Kara and Kefessia, from which one of our most famous wines, Kara Kermen, was produced. We had no choice but produce it from two other powerful grapes – Tempranillo and Saperavi, using the appassimento method – drying the grapes before fermentation and fermenting the wine in barrels without a top lid.”
The rare Timorasso grape grows exceptionally well in the Beykush vineyards. In summer 2023, Fantasia Timorasso 2019 and Lerici 2021 (the name for Beykush Timorasso wine for the past two years) were highly appreciated by experts at an Italian tasting of Timorasso wines, organised by the Colli Tortonesi consortium. Among them was the inspired promoter of this indigenous Piedmont grape, Walter Massa, whose original idea it was, supported by Beykush winemaking consultant Bisso Atanasov to bring 1,000 Timorasso scions to Ukraine as an experiment, which obviously turned out to be a success.
Distinguished experts, winemakers and journalists noted how the terroir of the northern Black Sea region suited this variety, and some called Lerici 2021 their favourite wine in the tasting. The author of Il Golosario, Alessandro Ricci, wrote: “In Beykush wines this variety demonstrates an unprecedented character. Spicy notes of incense and black cardamon and some exotic notes are very pronounced in the aroma. The taste is less explosive, however it clearly reveals the character of Timorasso, as it doesn’t lack freshness and acidity. A very special taste of this wine is like a bridge between Italy and Ukraine, to which we are sending our support.”
In addition to the multiple grape varieties and complicated blends, Beykush wines have another feature: their names, originating from the history and culture of this incredible land. Yevgen told Canopy where these ideas came from: “Being interested in the history of the northern Black Sea region, I was surprised by the scale of events that took place here over the centuries, and the diversity of people who lived here – Cimmerians, Scythians, Greeks, Huns, Goths, Samaritans, Bulgars, Khazars, Pechenegs, Cumans, Tatars, Krymchaks, Karaims, and Ottomans. And, to make others interested, I decided to give our wines the names of toponyms located nearby. These names, even within a few kilometres around us, are plenty: Beykush, Artania, Yafe Nagar, Lerich, Arbina, Loka Deserta, Kara Kermen. For someone who is not a professional but, rather, an amateur historian, this research was not an easy thing to do. But it was absolutely worth it.”
When I asked Yevgen which of his wines is most special to him, he said: “It’s really difficult to single out just one of them. Red – Kara Kermen; orange – Arbina and Amphora; whites – Yafe Nagar and Telti-Kuruk. Our Artania, white and red, are very affordable, lively and gastronomic wines. To me, they are all the best.”
During our long conversation, we didn’t speak much about the war. When you are in the same boat, too many words are unnecessary. Yevgen was very laconic: “We are still in a very dangerous zone, a few kilometres away from the city of Mykolaiv, which is under daily missile, artillery and drone attacks. For security reasons, I cannot provide much information regarding what is currently happening in our region, now that it is located too close to the frontline. I also understand that I have no right to complain. Compared to many other wineries, we are fine.”
'Compared to many other wineries, we are fine'During the two years of the full-scale Russian invasion, Beykush not only managed to maintain its business, but also grew exports, won several important awards from international competitions, and participated in several large international wine fairs and tastings for the professional wine community. Yevgen and his team constantly donate to the Armed Forces of Ukraine, auction their wines for fundraising, support important projects, such as rehabilitation centres for children who have suffered from the war, and engage in lots of other activities. Basically, that's what all Ukrainians do when they are not fighting at the frontline. Keeping faith in victory and bringing it closer.
Biologist Winery is one of 17 producers on the Wines of Ukraine stand at ProWein 2024 (March 10-12, Dusseldorf, Germany). As well as the big winemaking companies and major players such as SHABO, Chateau Chizay, Koblevo and Bolgrad, the Ukrainian national stand (13H52) will present smaller craft wineries from various parts of the country. These include Biologist Winery (Kyiv region), Sass K Winery (Zakarpattia) and Beykush Winery (Mykolaiv).
Wines of Ukraine will also present 11 producers at the London Wine Fair, May 20-22, Olympia, London, W14 8UX, England. Stand: D26.
Victoria Makarova is a Ukrainian wine expert and journalist, and representative for Wines of Ukraine. Since April 2022, Victoria has been living in Baden-Württemberg, Germany.
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