The Douro’s Majesty Unfolds in the 2024 Vintage Port

In stark contrast to the drought-ravaged 2026 vintage, 2024 marked a return to classic Douro conditions, says Christy Canterbury MW.

"In 2024, the Douro spoke in a voice that we haven't heard in years," declared Rupert Symington.

A grand statement, perhaps, but the wines tasted at the New York vintage début earlier this year fully supported Symington's claim. Moreover, it has been seven years since the last "general Vintage Port declaration", which occurs when most of the leading shippers independently deem a harvest to be of exceptional quality. Given that this seven-year gap is the longest since the Second World War - even in technically neutral Portugal, Vintage Port was generally not made between 1935 and 1945—there is clear sincerity behind the pronouncement.

Clement weather was the impetus, with a steady crescendo of Goldilocks-worthy conditions from dormancy in autumn 2023 through to the 2024 harvest. The winter preceding 2024 replenished water tables, while the major growing-season events coincided with traditional timing windows rather than the accelerated ones seen in most recent years.

Although spring was relatively cool by recent standards, it was still warm enough for budbreak to occur slightly early. Alas, the rain continued, reducing yields during flowering. Summer then turned dry, bringing warm but not extreme temperatures. August did deliver a heat spike, but nothing violent - certainly nothing like 2022, when Symington noted that the Douro's scenic Pinhão Valley recorded Portugal's highest temperature ever, a scorching 47°C.



Mercifully, the mercury soon dropped. Cool nights gently extended the ripening season, allowing grapes to be picked at optimal maturity rather than forcing growers to rush everything into the winery at once. Occasional September rains also helped keep vine stress at bay.

The reasonable pace of the 2024 season meant that harvest was beginning just as the heat-accelerated harvest of 2022 was finishing. Even Touriga Franca/Francesa, the most widely planted but latest-ripening variety - and one that has performed less optimally in recent, heat-driven vintages - benefited from the gentle daytime temperatures and cool nights leading into harvest, allowing it to shine in 2024.

The Fladgate Partnership's head winemaker, David Guimaraens, notes that the cooler conditions allowed for longer, smoother fermentations. Small yields delivered notably concentrated fruit, as well as colours that are rich and, in some cases, almost inky. As Symington pointed out, it is always fascinating to consider the density of the colour before 20% of the wine's volume is "lightened" by the clear grape spirit used to fortify it.

A Quick Look Forward

Looking ahead to future vintages, another highlight of the tasting was the discussion of how grape varieties are performing today in the Douro. In light of climate change, not all varieties are behaving as they historically have.

The classic varieties include Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca/Francesa, Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão and Tinta Amarela. A blending region by nature, Christian Seeley of Quinta do Noval pointed out that there are 114 authorised varieties in the Douro - 65 red and 49 white - with more than 80 already authorised for use in Port.

With its unique and vast pool of grape varieties, the Douro should already be well positioned for the future. It is simply a question of which grapes to choose.

The teinturier (red-fleshed) Alicante Bouschet - a variety mostly planted in field blends and more commonly used in table wines - is gaining ground in plantings for Port among the Symingtons. In addition to its naturally deep colour, its soft palate can help offset the firm tannins of already tannic varieties in hot, dry years. Alicante Bouschet can also yield generously, even in baked, drought-afflicted vintages.

It may well encroach on the position of the highly prized Tinta Barroca, which has been struggling in recent years. In Symington's words, "Tinta Barroca is not overcoming the extremes that we are seeing now."

The Symingtons are also taking a closer look at Sousão, thanks to its resilient supporting acidity and aromatic dynamism. It, too, has excellent colour-producing potential, although it is not a teinturier.

Take Action on the 2024s

Returning to the 2024 vintage wines, one thing is key: if you are interested, don't miss the buying opportunity.



Vintage Port is famously rare, accounting for just a small percentage of the total wine production of the Douro Valley. In 2024, volumes were a mere 50% of the typical average for a vintage declaration, owing to the rain during flowering. Then, of course, the grapes and wines undergo a rigorous casting call to ensure that only the very best make it into the final wines.

Production at The Fladgate Partnership - Taylor's, Fonseca and Croft - is the lowest ever released.

The 2024s show exquisite purity, refined structure and balletic power. Nothing sticks out, even in their vivacious youth. It is rare to find this level of climate-infused finesse in modern Ports.

These wines are exquisite now and will age handsomely.