Grand finale panel discussion @ Wine Future
Posted by Ray O'Connor | Filed under Wine Future
Whatever decisions come from the Copenhagen treaty, you’re guaranteed a press bonanza with rolls of column inches and photos dedicated to covering the assembly of the world’s most influential figures. We can expect a similar amount of chatter, although increasingly online, about the global leaders of the wine industry who stood side by side on stage for photographers before sitting down to solve the issues of wine’s future. Pancho Campo MW was efficient in his mediation and relayed questions from the audience, including a tweeted question, to the panel of experts. Sitting from left to right was Mel Dick, Jorge Ordoñez, Robert Parker, Don St. Pierre, Christopher Cannan, Jancis Robinson MW, Paul Pontallier and Justin Howard-Sneyd MW.
The wireless microphone was passed around the group to Parker to answer the issue of high alcohol wines, who is often regarded as favouring bigger wines with similarly large abv figures. He assured the gathering that he was against excessively high alcohol in wines and acknowledged the social responsibility of drinking these wines. In the face of government legislation versus the artistic contribution of a wine maker he knows he will always side with the latter, believing that they should be allowed to make the greatest expression of wine from whatever vineyard they have. “If that results in a wine that’s 15% alcohol, and that’s the best wine they can make, I’ve no problem with that.” He continues to say that the interferences of the French government in restricting the level to 13% abv in certain appellations is compromising the quality of their terroir and the integrity of the varietal, which would be manipulating what is essentially a natural product.
On the subject of consumption, in his own slow drawl, Mel Dick predicted that the U.S. will be the largest wine consuming nation in the future. Only 9 litres of wine per adult is currently consumed in the states compared 30-40 litres in other leading wine producing countries, so, he says, “the future for fine wine is wonderful. There will be many many years of great growth, great opportunity for everybody in the wine industry.”
Submitting her point from the crowd, Su Birch of Wines of South Africa, criticised the conference for being too ‘Euro-centric’ and asked the panel did they not see a role for the Southern hemisphere in the future of wine. Jancis Robinson responded to this accusation and turned the spotlight on Australia when considering the opportunities and challenges. She declared that Australians are on the frontline of being affected by climate change she also touched on the current off loading of vineyards and wineries as growers go out of business.
Parker added that in the last 10-15 years there has been an explosive interest in new wines. The growth in production and higher quality styles of wines from these regions has out stripped demand for these wines, even though there is an increase in interest in wine. He says the problem is that they couldn’t stay abreast of so much wine from so many different areas and that issue has come to the fore in the past year. “We are going through a massive correction because of the world economy….., but we will come out of it, I am very much an optimist for the long term.”
His positive tone was quickly muted when the topic of speculation on wine arose. Raising strong applause from the crowd he said wine is meant to be consumed and enjoyed, adding that speculation is “a dirty word” and resents the fact that his scores are used for this purpose. Robinson referred to the recent influx of wine investment funds as “dreary” and “depressing” questioning whether any one of the people who run these operations actually drink any wine. Someone who is a major link in this chain is Paul Pontallier, whose Chateaux Margaux wines achieve some of the greatest figures in those circles. He agreed that speculation has affected the market and the price but denies that this would have any effect on the quality. He suggested that it may even increase the attention awarded to wine making techniques, given the influence it has had on prices and that nobody in Bordeaux makes wine for this purpose. Big statement, but I think he wanted to use this soap box to dismiss what he must have felt was an industry observation of the Borealis.
To conclude this potentially long-winded post I would just mention the quality of speaking from Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, Waitrose wine buyer, who was extremely clear and articulate in his comments on stage, refraining from unnecessarily dragging out any answers. His ‘best-bits’ included his approach to people who enjoy drinking sweeter style wines, suggesting introducing them to higher quality wines that still maintain that sweetness, such as Vouvray or good German Rieslings, as opposed to ‘correcting’ their taste buds. He advised any youngsters who are considering entering the wine trade to avoid it if they are expecting to make lots of money. Author of The Wine Advocate, Robert Parker advised them to become a lawyer if money’s what they’re interested in.
Pancho Campo and his team deserve huge credit for professionally organising such an essential event to the wine trade, even if some of the speakers weren’t up to the mark. As I congratulated him after the official dinner he told me Kofi Annan was booked in for next years conference on climate change and that as Robert Parker was hugging him on stage he whispered “I’m definitely in for the next one” which is due to be held in 2011.
Tags: alcohol, Jancis Robinson, Kofi Annan, Robert Parker, Waitrose, wine, Wines of South Africa
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