Japanese Koshu tasting
Posted by Ray O'Connor | Filed under Grape varieties, Trade Tasting, Uncategorized
Running a little behind on updating tastings posts due to heavy workload at the IWC but I thought it is important to mention the Koshu tasting I attended last Friday. Fifteen wine-makers had travelled to London to show their wines which are produced in the the Yamanashi Prefecture.
The wine growing regions benefit from volcanic soils and although temperatures can reach very high the diurnal variation ensures freshness is maintained in the Koshu grapes. I found the better wines to be similar to the fresh white wines of Rueda, Spain. They were light and crisp with lovely crunchy green apple fruits. The Katsunuma Jyozo Co.Ltd winery was particularly good. Their wine, Arugabranca Isehara 2009, had lovely aromatics with greengage and floral notes and some grapefruit. The palates was fresh, light and crisp.
Ayana Misawa is the winemaker and viticulturist of Grace Wine. She informed me that the grapes can be naturally reductive and this is something the wineries try and manage, considering most wines are produced in stainless steel tanks. Those that had lees stirring in barrel managed to boost the body somewhat and were similar to the styles found in Muscadet sur Lie wines that are raised in oak.
Japanese sommlier and MW student Yuka Ogasawara suggested Asian cuisine best accompanied these wines. I would also look to shell fish and pomelo salads to enhance the vibrant fruit found in some of these wines. These wines should be considered in UK restaurants, not for the niche factor but because, some of them at least, stand up to many good quality European wines currently being served today.
An ecclectic line up of German wines
Posted by Ray O'Connor | Filed under Grape varieties, Trade Tasting
Iris Ellmann, of The Wine Barn fame, hosted her annual portfolio tasting of German wines at the German Haus on Belgrave Square yesterday. Set up ten years ago in March, The Wine Barn has focused uniquely on quality German producers and mainly sells to restaurants. The room was packed full of sommeliers and a few of the regular restaurant buyers. You can watch a one minute interview with Iris in the player on your right now.
Of course the Rieslings were cracking. I personally loved the styles from Weingut Gottelmann from the Nahe, whose main focus is on this variety. The 2006, Kapellenberg Riesling Spatlese off-dry was outstanding, especially for £9.99 (trade price). It had pungent petrol aromas on the nose as well as an enticing scent of lemon meringue pie. Yum. These characteristics were found all over the palate as well with a delicious, long length on the finish.
I was happily surprised by the quality of the Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) wines on offer from various producers. Most had seen some oak which worked in favour of the majority of them, others not so favourably. Weingut Franz Keller are based around a now dormant volcano in the region of Baden, not far from the Swiss border. They were showing Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) ) in the whites and, most impressively, Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) in the red corner.The 2007 Spatburgunder Rotwein Selection (£14.99) had a beautifully poised nose of red cherries and a hint of clove spice. The palate had good depth and intensity with tannins coming from both the oak and the grape. This would improve immensely well with 7-8 years cellaring.
It would be wrong not to mention the class act that is Weingut Meyer-Nakel from the northerly region of Ahr. Their Spatburgunders are special. They have all the weight you might hope for without taking away from the silky smooth fruit that miraculously ripens so well so far north. A wine first for me was their Fruburgunder (Pinot Madeline) which is a clone of Pinot Noir that ripens up to three weeks earlier that usual. The Dernauer Pfarrwingert dry (£35.40) is made from the above varietal and is truly exceptional. It has a lovely ripe sweetness on the nose and a sow’s ear of silkiness on the palate that left a cushiony mouth-feel that went on and on. Lovely stuff.
Lastly, Weingut Friedrich Becker managed to offer great wines at both ends of the price spectrum. For great value check out their Estate Spatburgunder QbA (£10.15) which smooth, a bit smoky but well balanced. On the other side of the scales is the top notch Spatburgunder Sankt Paul Grand Cru dry (£111.88 per bottle) which I tasted in magnum. Beautiful vanilla pod aroma with a silky and elegant mouth-feel. Delicious light, sweet cherry fruits that lingered for up to a minute.
I didn’t need to be further convinced of the joys of German Rieslings but witnessing the current quality of the Pinor Noir coming out of the various regions was a welcome revelation.
Tags: Germany, Riesling, Spatburgunder
Ode to St Laurent
Posted by Ray O'Connor | Filed under Grape varieties
I have tasted St Laurent before, but quite clearly never gave it the time of day it deserved. The past two weekends I have opened a bottle of this Austrian wonder, each time in total awe . Last night I tasted Pittnauer’s St Laurent 2007 and I’ve been completely converted to this addictive religion. The wine is available from Clark Foyster Wines (020 8567 3731) whose website appears to be down at the moment. It has the silkiness of New Zealand P.N. and the gaminess of a slightly developed Pommard with a few steroids thrown in to impress any old school Burgundy lovers. Anyone wishing to pull the purse strings on their wine spend this Christmas would find great value in these wines.
Last week I had Heinrich Hartl, St Laurent 2007 which won the St Laurent trophy at the International Wine Challenge this year. Holy cow, it blew me away. I can not recall a single wine been so moreish for a long time. It’s supple palate seemed capable of matching any dish with ladles of black cheery fruit and spices. It’s available from Merry Widows Wine.
Originating in Burgundy the St Laurent variety moved to Alsace and Germany before setting up shop in Austria where the finest examples are found. It does well in the Thermenregion and Burgenland, Austria’s notable red wine producing regions. The grape is slightly more resistant to disease in Austria than elsewhere, hence a greater presence there. DNA testing has matched the grape to Pinot Noir and it’s parental characteristics certainly shine through. I’ll be tasting more of these wines on the video player of the blog in the new year. Can’t wait!
Tags: Austria, St Laurent
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